Our detailed Instruction Booklet explains how Parkerizing works and takes you through the process step-by-step with plenty of helpful trouble shooting info. I’m going to use directions specific to the phosphate solution I’m used to .. I’ve done this using the manganese solution off of brownells, it pit a. Parkerizing – Products. Parkerizing Instructions · PARKERIZING SUPPLIES ONLY · BROWNELLS. Unfortunately, this product cannot be ordered. Parkerizing.

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Please read the rules, the FAQand search before posting. Megathread of the day: Pistol Irons Glass Milsurp. Caliber wars, “Best” gun, favorite x, etc. White noise posts are for default subs. Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy. Virginia – Nov Related reddits now found in the FAQ. What is it, why would I do this to my parts?

If you’re too lazy to read, I’ll give you the tl;dr here. Essentially, it’s a phosphate coating on your steel parts that protects from corrosion and helps wear resistance. Before we start, let me clarify “easy”. This is a pretty straightforward process, but you can’t really get away with skipping steps. You are going to be using a media blaster of some sort, so if you don’t have one perhaps look around for a rental or a shop that will do it for you.

Ten Easy Steps to Parkerizing Your Gun Parts at Home : guns

If you have a compressor, you can probably find a media blaster for cheap at Harbor Freight or something. Everything else you need should be relatively easy-access. You will be working with harsh chemicals and particulates that you do not want to ingest or come into contact with.

Do this shit outside, and wear the appropriate safety equipment when necessary, including splash goggles, chemical gloves, and respirators. Completely strip whatever it is you’re working with. If it’s a frame, take all the parts out. If it’s an AR barrel, take the front sight block off and park it separately, unless you want to be a sloppy faggot and not park under the sight.

Next, clean the shit out of your parts. You do not want anything on the part that will interfere with a solid, consistent coating. Once it’s clean degrease it too. Use something like brake cleaner or Simple Green, or whatever commercial degreaser you wish. Wear nitrile gloves at this point, your skin oils will fuck it up just as easily as gun oil. I don’t mean spritz it with a water bottle and call it good, I mean rinse the fuck out of it.

You don’t want anything left over on the part. Deionized water is ideal, but since most of you probably don’t have a deionizer handy, your garden hose will do the job too. There are several rinsing steps, and they are perhaps the most crucial to getting a consistent and blemish-free end-product.


Don’t use a paper towel or something that’s going to get lint all over the part. If you have an air compressor, blow it off. If not, let the parts air dry in a clean, dust free environment. This drying step is especially crucial, because next comes media blasting and you don’t want moisture in your blasting cabinet or media.

In this step, make sure you plug anything that isn’t going to be phosphated. If you’re doing an AR barrel for example, plug the chamber and the muzzle as well as the gas port. Use plugs that are chemical resistant and aren’t going to fall out at the slightest touch. Rubber works well here. In order to get a thick enough and consistent phosphate finish, you are going to want to remove any trace of the old finish and rough up the surface a bit.

If there was no previous finish, you mightI repeat might be able to get away with skipping this step. You may not get a consistent finish.

You have been warned. Make sure inetructions remove all traces of any previous finish. If you don’t, your parts will look like shit later. Aluminum oxide works, as does glass beads. Just don’t use sandbox sand. Yes, another rinse step. Don’t half-ass it, you don’t want any blasting media left over inatructions the part.

This drying step is less crucial, because you’re about to dip it in a phosphate bath. But do it anyway, because I said so. First I need to discuss bath preparation.

I’m going to use directions specific to the phosphate solution I’m used to using, which is Phos Dip M It’s a commercial product that is easy to buy in bulk, so we use it at work.

You may find something that’s a better fit for your one-time job at home, or that you can buy in smaller quantities. The preparation steps are going to be pretty similar across the board, the proportion of chemicals may just differ. So remember, anything said in this step after this point may differ based on the product you are using. Wear gloves for this whole step, or the boogie man will get you.

Fill your basin stainless steel works best. Again, DI water is best but not completely necessary. Use whatever you have available to do so.

Some kind of hot plate or whatever might work, or some sort of heating element off an old stove. Anything that can reach at least F and maintain a consistent temperature will work. Add your phosphate solution to the correct proportion. For Phos Dip M, it’s 10 gallons of M for every gallons of solution. What does that mean you may ask? It means that if you have a gallon tank, you would add 10 gallons of M Obviously that won’t be the case, so do some simple math You guys remember 7th grade fractions right?


When you’re adding solution, pour slowly and don’t splash it all over yourself. Fill the basin up to working level whatever number you used to calculate the correct amount of phosphate solution to add.

Toss some scrap iron, iron chips, or steel wool into the basin. Don’t worry about why, just assume it’s part of the magical chemical process.

Keep the bath at temperature F, remember? Remove the iron you put in earlier, and raise the temperature of the bath to between and F. Remember, this might vary. Read the directions for whatever shit you bought. Once the bath is at temperature, you’re ready to work. Put your parts in the bath, ideally on some sort of rack or hanger that will make sure the entire part gets done. Leave the parts in the bath for minutes, until gassing that’s bubbles stops. Once time is up, remove the parts and move on to Step 9 finally.

This one is important, because you want to make sure to remove all the leftover chemicals so the reaction doesn’t continue. Remove any plugs you have on the part, then submerge it in oil for a minimum of 60 seconds. If you don’t have something to use as an oil bath, just figure it out.

Oil stays in the finish pretty well which is the whole point reallyprotects the part, and lubes it forever. Okay, so I lied. It was more than ten steps.

No, you can’t sue me. Anyway, you’re all done. If your part looks like shit, you probably fucked up somewhere. Common errors include not degreasing well enough, not media blasting well enough, and being dumb.


If you did happen to screw up, you can start over. You’re not going to hurt anything by doing it again. I’ll assume you didn’t fuck up though. Wipe off any excess oil, clean up your shit, and dispose of all chemicals according to federal, state, and local law. You’re going to want to neutralize the phosphate bath. An easy way to do this is with swimming pool pH stuff you can buy at Wally World. Soda Ash sodium carbonate is what you’re after. Pour a bunch into the bath and mix it up, it should neutralize the chemicals in the bath and make it safe for you to pour the what is now essentially water mixture down the drain.

Any sludge leftover in the bottom can be tossed in the trash. I have MSDSs for some of this stuff, as well as additional information for bath maintenance if you’re a shop owner planning on doing this as part of your business.